Zellige, pottery and brass in Fes: what to see and how to buy well
Fes has been a city of craftspeople for more than a thousand years. If you only buy one thing here, make it something made by hand. This guide explains three crafts you will see everywhere, where to watch them being made, and how to buy well. Our family also runs a pottery, zellige and brass workshop in the Quartier Artisanal Seffarine Ain Nokbi, so these are crafts we know.
Zellige: the mosaic tile
Zellige is made from hand-cut terracotta tiles covered in a glaze. Craftspeople chisel the tiles into precise geometric shapes and then assemble the pattern face-down, so the finished wall is laid from the back. You can see centuries-old zellige in the madrasas of the medina and on fountains and courtyards across the city.
Fes blue pottery
The cobalt blue of Fes is the signature of the city’s pottery. The colour deepens when the piece comes out of the kiln. The potters’ quarter is in Ain Nokbi, just outside the medina, where workshops moved in 2013. You can watch pieces being thrown, painted and fired, and visit the showrooms.
Brass and copper at Place Seffarine
Place Seffarine, near the Al-Qarawiyyin, is the traditional square of the metalworkers. Small workshops hammer and pierce brass and copper into lanterns, trays and teapots. You hear the square before you see it.
Where to learn more
The Dar Batha museum, close to Bou Inania Madrasa, is devoted to the arts and crafts of Fes and shows the pottery, wood and metalwork of the city. It is a good place to see what high-quality pieces look like before you shop.
How to buy well
- Visit a workshop and ask to see how the piece is made. If the seller cannot explain it, be careful.
- Compare pieces in two or three places before you decide.
- Look closely at the glaze, the edges and the painting. Hand-made pieces vary slightly, and that is the point.
- Ask what the piece is made of, and ask about shipping or wrapping for fragile items.
- Agree the price before you accept tea or a demonstration, and bargain with a smile.
- Be wary of anyone who pressures you, and remember you are free to walk away.
Ask us
Our workshop is in the Quartier Artisanal Seffarine Ain Nokbi, the craftsmen’s quarter of Fes. If you are staying with us and want advice before you shop, or would like to see how the work is done, ask. We are happy to tell you what is worth your time and what to look for.
For the rest of your visit, see things to do in Fes and our first-timer’s guide to the medina.
Staying with us? Call or text +212 611 681 608 (WhatsApp or SMS) and we will explain the easiest way to get where you want to go. See our apartments.
