Chouara Tannery in Fes: how to visit, what it costs and when to go

The Chouara Tannery is the most photographed sight in Fes: rows of stone vats filled with red, yellow and blue dye, with workers standing in them. Leather has been tanned here by hand for centuries, and local tradition says since the medina was founded in the ninth century. It is a memorable place, and it is easy to visit if you know how it works.

Is there an entrance fee?

There is no ticket office. You cannot walk into the tannery itself. You watch from the terraces of the leather shops that surround the vats, and you reach them through the shop. Viewing is free in principle, but a small tip for the terrace is normal. Travelers commonly report 20 to 50 dirhams per person as reasonable, and a demand for much more is a sign to politely leave and try another shop.

Why do they give you mint?

The dyeing and softening of hides produces a strong smell. The shop staff hand you a sprig of fresh mint to hold under your nose, and it really does help. Take it, but treat it as a courtesy and not as a contract: you are not obliged to buy anything, although it is polite to look around the shop.

The best time to go

Go in the morning, ideally before about 10 am. The light is better for photographs, the vats are busy, and the heat has not yet made the smell stronger. Plan on 30 to 45 minutes, including the walk through the leather souk.

Practical tips

• Bring small change in dirhams for the terrace tip.
• The terraces are usually crowded with other visitors on busy days, so be patient for your photo.
• Avoid flash, and be respectful when photographing the workers.
• Wear shoes with good grip, as the shop floors and stairs can be uneven.
• Several shops share the same view, so you do not need to hunt for a single “best” terrace.

Avoiding the hustle

In the lanes leading to the tannery, people will offer to show you the way, or will tell you the road is closed. Decline politely and keep walking, or use an offline map. You will find the tannery by following the smell and the signs for the leather shops. A licensed guide is a good idea on your first day in the medina. Our medina guide for first-timers explains how to find one.

What to buy

The leather souk around the tannery is one of the best places in Morocco to buy leather goods such as bags, slippers and belts. Look at the stitching and the smell of the leather, compare two or three shops, and agree the price before you start talking about the extras.

The tannery is one stop among many in the old city. See our list of things to do in Fes.

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