Fes medina for first-timers: how to find your way and avoid getting lost

The medina of Fes is a maze of thousands of alleys, and getting lost is part of the experience. A few simple habits make it far easier, and far more enjoyable. This guide is written for first-time visitors.

Start at a main gate

Most visitors enter through Bab Boujloud, the Blue Gate, on the western side. Bab Rcif and Bab Guissa are other entrances and are often less crowded. Whichever you choose, note the name of the gate you came in by, because it is your way out.

Understand the slope

The medina runs downhill from the Blue Gate towards the Al-Qarawiyyin and the tanneries. The two main streets, Talaa Kebira and Talaa Sghira, are lined with shops and run down the slope. Walking down in the morning and taking a taxi back from a lower gate is easier than walking up at the end of the day.

Take an offline map

Phone signal can be unreliable between tall buildings. Download an offline map before you go and keep your phone charged. Compass directions are less useful than landmarks: remember a gate, a fountain or a madrasa you passed.

Unofficial guides

Young men near the gates may offer to guide you, or tell you that the road ahead is closed or that something is closed today. A polite “no, thank you” is enough, and keep walking. If you want a guide, hire a licensed one through your host or at a reputable office, and agree the price and the length of the tour before you start. Many visitors find a half-day guide on their first morning is money well spent.

Share the lanes

There are no cars, but donkeys, mules and handcarts carry goods through the narrow lanes. When you hear porters shout, step to the side. Keep your bag in front of you in crowded spots.

Dress, cash and timing

• Dress modestly. Shoulders and knees covered is respectful and more comfortable.
• Carry small notes in dirhams. Many small shops and taxis do not take cards.
• Mornings are quieter and cooler. Some shops close around midday on Fridays, so plan around it.
• Eat where you see locals eating, and agree prices before you order if there is no menu.

When you are lost

Ask a shopkeeper rather than someone who approaches you. Say the name of a gate, for example “Bab Boujloud”, and they will usually point you in the right direction.

Where to stay

Many guests prefer to stay in the modern part of the city and visit the medina by taxi. It is quiet, there is parking, and the Old Medina is a short drive away. Read where to stay in Fes, then see things to do in Fes and the Chouara Tannery guide.

Staying with us? Call or text +212 611 681 608 (WhatsApp or SMS) and we will explain the easiest way to get where you want to go. See our apartments.